Frequently asked questions

Classic skis require grip wax or klister for grip.
See Cross-country Ski Tuning 101 for some basic tips.
The skis also need glide waxes, both for better glide and general maintenance.

First, rub the grip zone with sandpaper (T11 Synthetic cork with sandpaper), then apply a layer of base wax/base klister (VGS35C).
To finish, apply the wax required on the top. Example: Swix V40 Blue Extra

This depends on the length of the trip, but we recommend a minimum of four thin layers that are corked-on or heated-in between putting on the wax. Longer trips require several layers of wax.

It depends on the weather. Check the temperature range and find a wax that matches the temperature of the day. There are two temperature ranges stated on the wax: one is for fresh new snow, the other for older snow.

Example: Swix V40 Blue Extra

Suitable for fresh snow from -1°C to -7°C
Suitable for old snow from -3°C to -10°C

The easiest and gentlest way to remove grip wax is with Fiberlene and base cleaner.

You can also use a plastic scraper if you have a lot of old wax on your skis that is hard to remove.

To get a good grip on your skis, the most important thing is that the ski fits your weight; this applies to both regular classic skis and skin skis.
The second most important thing is proper waxing. You can follow the temperature recommendation on the wax packaging itself. Here you can see which temperature the wax is suitable for.

Example: Swix V40 Blue Extra
Suitable for fresh snow from -1°C to -7°C.
Suitable for old snow from -3°C to -10°C.

VR has been replaced with VP. VP is a fluorine-free grip wax for racing and training.

Rubbing the skis means using sandpaper (T11 Synthetic cork with sandpaper) on the area of the base where you’re going to apply ski wax, so that the grip wax adheres better.

This depends on what you want from your wax.
If you’re a beginner or just going out for a ski, you need a minimum of:

• Cork
• Brush

If you have slightly bigger demands for your wax and want a much better result, we recommend:

• Cork
• Brush
• Waxing iron
• Sandpaper
• Scraper
• Waxing table with profile
• Fibertex

If you are competing and you need your wax to support your performance, we recommend:

• Cork
• Brush
• Waxing iron
• Waxing table with profile
• Scraper
• Rotobrushes
• Structure tool
• Sandpaper
• Fibertex

We recommend applying a layer regardless of whether you are waxing with grip wax or klister.
Base wax/klister, or base wax (e.g. VGS35C ) is applied after you have scraped and rubbed the ski base clean. This ensures that the wax adheres better to the ski.
Spray base into the grip zone or heat in a layer of base wax (e.g. VG35 ) Do not use a waxing iron, even if recommended. You can cork in the base wax instead of heating it.

V (e.g. Swix V40 Blue Extra ) is made for skiing and training, while VP (e.g. VP45 Pro ) is mainly for advanced training and competing. This means that the Swix VP grip wax can give you more performance. But our standard V grip waxes are also used in the World Cup.

As a beginner, the classic V-series of grip waxes is enough, and the KX-series of klister.

For the advanced skier, the VP range can be a great alternative for competitions or longer trips. KN klister is designed for competitions.

No, preferably not. This will remove the glide wax and dry out the ski. If you use Base cleaner in the glide zone, you need to glide the ski again.
We recommend using Base cleaner when cleaning wax and klister from the grip zone on your skis.
Do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.

PS is made for ski sessions and training, HS is made for training and competing and TS for racing. Find more on the Pro wax system here.

If the skis are dry, the skis will look a little white/gray. You will then need to saturate the base by heating in a soft glide wax, such as PS10, several times.
After this, you should apply a hard and protective glide wax, like HS6, before you lay the glide wax recommended for the day's conditions, which can be a fine spray glide wax (HS6 Liquid ) for sessions of less than 30 km.

You don't need any equipment other than a liquid F4 glide wax. It’s all about how much effort you want to put in and what performance you want.
If you want the best possible results, you need different types of glide waxes, drills, Fiberlene, glide cleaner, different types of rotobrushes, wool and fleece, scrapers and an iron.
For example:
To use liquid glide wax, you'll need at least: Fiberlene, a nylon brush and a combi cork
To use heated glide wax, you'll need at least: A waxing iron, a brush, a plexi scraper, a scraper and Fiberlene.

There are many types of gliding waxes, from simple (F4), liquid glide wax (HS6 Liquid), to more advanced glide waxes that need to be heated (HS6) onto the ski base.
The easiest way: F4-100C Glidewax
Some waxes need to be applied with a waxing iron while other liquid glide waxes can be apply without a waxing iron.

We recommend glide waxing as often as possible. Preferably for every 100 km up to 150 km with melt-in glide wax.
One tip is to use liquid glide wax (e.g. HS6 ) after each ski session. This will protect your skis and you can easily brush off just before your next session to get the best glide possible.
You will need:

• Fiberlene
• Nylon Brush
• Combi cork

Article: How to apply liquid glide wax without a waxing iron

For every 100 km up to 150 kilometres, you should heat glide wax onto the skis to refill the base. You will need:

• Waxing iron
• Brush
• Plexi scraper
• Scraper
• Fiberlene.

Apply Base Cleaner and Fiberlene to the grip zone. In the glide zone, apply glide wax cleaner and fiberlene so that you do not remove the glide wax, only the dirt and muck.

Yes, on many types of skis, liquid glide waxes have proven to be just as effective– if not better – than solid glide waxes.
See the differences between the various glide waxes in the Pro by Swix series.

We recommend that you saturate new skis before use. This means that you add a glide wax to the ski base to prevent the ski from drying out. If you have white tracks in your skis, that's a sign that your skis are dry.
New skis should be saturated with a soft glide wax, e.g. PS10. Heat the glide wax into the base, wait until it has cooled down and reheat the glide wax. Top off with glide wax so that you always have wax between the waxing iron and the base.
Repeat the process until you have heated in the glide wax 6–8 times. Scrape and brush off before heating a layer of hard glide wax, e.g. HS6. Heat a few times, scrape and brush, and then apply the glide wax recommended for the day's conditions in the same way.

You will need:

Attachment to the skis (e.g. T149-50 )
Fixed glider (e.g. HS6 )
Waxing iron (e.g. T72 )
Plexi scraper
Middle edge scraper (e.g. T88 Pencil )
Brushes (e.g. Combi Brush)
Fiberlene
Glide wax cleaner

We recommend glide waxing as often as possible. Preferably for every 100 km up to 150 km with melt-in glide wax.
One tip is to use liquid glide wax (e.g. HS6 ) after each ski session. This will protect your skis and you can easily brush off just before your next session to get the best glide possible. You will need: Fiberlene; Nylon Brush; Combi cork
Article: How to apply liquid glide wax without a waxing iron [https://www.swixsport.ca/blogs/swix-school/how-to-apply-powder-wax-on-your-skis-pro-by-swix]
For every 100 km up to 150 kilometres, you should heat glide wax onto the skis to refill the base. You will need: Waxing iron; Brush; Plexi scraper; Scraper; Fiberlene.

The powder makes it easier to melt in the glide wax. Marathon is an extremely hard glide wax that many people find difficult to heat properly into the ski base. We have therefore launched the glide wax in powder format. The glide wax is the same regardless of what you choose, but it is easier to get a good result with the powder as mentioned.
Swix Marathon glide wax is applied with a Roto Wool brush
Swix Marathon Powder is applied with a waxing iron. See how to apply it here.

If you want the type of glide wax that you apply to your skis without melting in and without applying base prep glide wax, we recommend the F4 glide wax.
If you want to go one step further, you can invest in PS10, PS6 and HS liquid 6 and HS liquid 8, as well as a waxing iron, a combi brush and a scraper to prepare your skis for training.
If you want the best possible skis, you will need a lot of equipment and many different types of glide waxes. Check out our guide: Cross-country Ski Tuning 101

SWIX’s length recommendations for ski poles can be found in this table.
The table shows your recommended length for cross-country ski poles and roller ski poles for adults and children/juniors.

If you want the type of glide wax that you apply to your skis without melting in and without applying base prep glide wax, we recommend the F4 glide wax.
If you want to go one step further, you can invest in PS10, PS6 and HS liquid 6 and HS liquid 8, as well as a waxing iron, a combi brush and a scraper to prepare your skis for training.
If you want the best possible skis, you will need a lot of equipment and many different types of glide waxes. Check out our guide: Cross-country Ski Tuning 101

The key question is: At what level, and how often, do you ski?
It depends on the stiffness of the ski pole and what the pole is to be used for. Here are some examples:
• Beginner, slow pace > Infinity Basic Alu pole
• Medium, ski once a week > Dynamic D2
• Good, ski 2–3 times a week > Quantum Q2
• Expert and competitive > Triac 4.0 Aero
• Child/Junior beginner > Dynamic D2 Junior Alu pole
• Child/Junior good > Triac 4.0 Aero Junior TCS

Read more here: How to pick the right cross-country ski poles

If you want a simple and durable handle, choose one with as much plastic/rubber as possible. Clean cork handles are warmer and more comfortable, but don't last as long as plastic/rubber handles. Find Swix handles here.

The strap is selected according to how easy and fast you need to get out of it. A hand strap provides better support, force and function than a single strap, but is slower and harder to pull on and off. Find Swix pole straps here.

Read more on picking the right handles and straps in this article.

That depends on the pole. Our ski poles are made of a range of different materials that can withstand different loads and impacts.
Our best pole, Triac Aero 4.0, is very light and extremely stiff/rigid. These poles can be more easily kinked/knocked than poles made of aluminium, which are not as rigid. E.g. Infinity Sonic Alu pole.
For maximum performance and best results, you need rigid poles. If this is not important, it may be better to choose poles that are not as rigid but are more robust.

There are four different attachment systems for Swix baskets:

• TBS-system, which are screwed on by hand.
• The Sonic system on which the ferrule is glued, but the basket can be screwed on or off.
• Studs that are glued on with a basket that is pressed on.
• Ferrule with fixed basket, which is glued on.

The TBS system is the easiest to use. It allows you to easily replace the basket by loosening it by hand. To use these ferrules, you must have a ski pole that supports the TBS system. For example: Quantum Q1 pole

To change ferrules that are glued on (e.g. Infinity Basic Alu Pole ) you must heat the ferrule with boiling water or a heat gun, pull it off, glue with a glue gun and press on the new ferrule while the glue is liquid/warm.

Ski poles can be made of aluminium, fibreglass and carbon composite.
Aluminium withstands the most impacts, while carbon is light and stiff.
Glass fibre is a middle ground, which is not as light and stiff as carbon but can withstand more impact.

It may be a good idea to select the basket according to the tracks and conditions. For example:

Larger basket for loose trail --> Basket Triac Large

Smaller basket for firm trail --> Basket Triac XSmall

It may be a good idea to select the basket according to the tracks and conditions. For example:

Larger basket for loose trail > Leaf Large TBS Basket

Smaller basket for firm trail > Basket Triac XSmall

Triac 4.0 is our top model, while Quantum Q1 and Q2 are a less expensive alternative to racing.
Dynamic D1, D2 and D3 are very good poles for training and hiking. These are heavier and less stiff, but in return they can withstand more and are less expensive.

T795 has 4-cm lower profiles than T793-2, so you can use the clamp instead of fastening to the binding.

No, the T795H70 cannot be used on the T793-2

No, the narrowest T149-90N is 50 mm. T149-50 goes up to 40 mm, so this can be used for cross-country skis.

For skis shorter than 140 cm, use vises and adapters for alpine and cross-country

A waxing profile is used for cross-country skis and is a profile to which the ski is attached, so that the ski remains stable when waxing the skis.
There are stand-alone waxing profiles or waxing profiles attached to waxing tables or benches with clamps, as well as waxing profiles that are pushed into our waxing tables.
We recommend using a waxing table. It’s more convenient and you have space to put tools and waxing irons on the table while you’re working.

All Swix waxing profiles fit cross-country skis. We don't produce alpine and snowboard ski profiles since it is best to use vises for these.

A waxing profile is used for cross-country skis and is a profile to which the ski is secured, ensuring it remains stable whilst waxing.
There are waxing profiles that can be used on their own legs, profiles that are secured to the waxing table or a bench using clamps and finally profiles that slide into our waxing tables.

If you are a beginner, it depends on whether you are going to use it for cross-country skis or alpine skis/snowboards. You also need to consider whether you need to be able to carry it around a lot.

If you are an expert, our best waxing table is the Professional World Cup Table. The top plate is made of aluminum, so it can withstand a lot of wind and rain. This allows you to use it for a long time indoors and outdoors. This table is also relatively light, yet stable. The waxing table can also be height-adjusted.

You can find all waxing tables here: Swix Waxing Tables
https://www.swixsport.ca/collections/waxing-tables-accessories

We have several types of waxing tables. Which one suits you depends on the application.

This is because downhill skis/snowboards, weigh more than cross-country skis and you need to have clamps that fit. We recommend a waxing table that is wide and heavy.

For cross-country skis you can use most Swix waxing tables and adapt with the correct profiles.

No, our vises can easily be used on any table or bench, as long as there is room on the edge of the table (maximum 6 cm thick) to secure the vise.

You can use T149-50 an adapter for cross-country skiing T149-50UA.

Then you need the Power Pro vises.

You can use Pro Snowboard Vise, the Workshop Ski Vise, or put universal adapters on World Cup vises.

We have new vises for backcountry skis, T149-70.

You can also replace the attachments for old vises with T149-75.

T149-90N is the most versatile and can be used on skis with a mid-width of 50–155 mm. T149-50 can be used on skis with a mid-width of 40–100 mm.

Vises for:

Downhill skis: T149-50
Randoneé skis: T149-70
Snowboard: Pro Snowboard View
Workshops and private waxing rooms: T140N
Jump skis and wide downhill skis: T0149-90N
Cross-country skis: T149-50 and adapter T149-50UA

You attach the vises (e.g. T149-50 ) to the table or bench so that you have two outer points that support the ski or board at each end. You also have an attachment point in the middle.

See the different vises specific to these types of skis:
Downhill skis, backcountry skis, snowboards, jumps skis and cross-country skis)

Vises are used to attach the skis and snowboards to the table/bench to keep them stable while waxing.

Find all Swix vises here.

The short answer is when it is very wet or very cold.
In cold conditions, you want to create a water film between the snow and the ski. Then you can use a fairly fine broken V structure, while on wet conditions you want to drain. For wet conditions, use a coarse texture.

A 1-mm straight works well on the back of the skis on almost all types of snowy trails, especially on classic skis. Apply more pressure the wetter the snow.

If it is very wet, it may be useful to use 2mm. A 0.5-mm broken V is great for skating and classic skiing in below zero temperatures.

For beginners, these tools cover most trails:

T0423 structure tool with one roller
1 mm straight
2 mm straight
0.5 mm V structure

To get a new basic structure, you need to sand the skis, but you can adapt the skis with a grooving tool without sanding it.

Yes, if you use a filing tool, where you roll over and emboss (for example, T0424 Three-roll structure tool) and do not cut (for example, the T401U Structure tool) into the structure. You need to glide the skis every time you change structure.

T423 gives a good result and has easily replaceable rollers where it is possible to buy different types of rollers with different structures. This one is made of plastic and will not withstand professional use.

T0410 WC is our latest tool. It is made of metal, is robust and withstands a lot of punishment. It is the first tool that allows you to set the pressure you want on your skis to give you the perfect groove. It is made in Norway.

For example, you need:

Beginner: T0423 structure tool with one roller
Training: T0424S Three-Roller Structure Tool
Competing: T0410 WC Adjustable Structure Tool

A rule of thumb is the wetter the snow, the coarser the texture.

A broken V structure (e.g. 0.5-mm V structure) is a fine structure on colder trails for classic and skating styles, while a 1-mm straight file is a good choice on the rear part of classic skis, especially at -5 degrees and warmer.

Before grooving the skis, they must be fully prepared. That is, waxed, scraped and brushed. Run the grooving tool 1–3 strokes from the tip backwards, applying increasing pressure on the tool from the binding backwards along the base. The pressure on the grooving tool should be increased in wetter and damper snow.
For example, you will need:
Beginner: T0423 structure tool with one roller
Training: T0424S structure tool with three rollers
Competition: T0410 WC Adjustable Structure Tool

It is really important for the ski to glide well on the chosen trail and to optimize the structure for the day’s conditions. It is also necessary to get the best glide and performance.

For example, you need:

Beginner: T0423 structure tool with one roller
Training: T0424 Three-Roller Structure Tool
Competing: T0410 WC Adjustable Structure Tool

A structure tool allows you to adapt the structure of your ski to the day's conditions.
Adding a manual structure can in many cases give the glider a giant boost. The manual structure is set by a separate filing tool (e.g. T0424S Structure Kit ), which you can buy from us.

The skis must have been glided and polished before you add the manual structure. This is widely used in competitions at the highest level. Usually, you just characterize the ski with a structure you can remove by heating the glide wax, but we have a tool that permanently sets the structure. The T401U Structure tool is a good tool for wet conditions, but remember to sand the skis again to remove it.
All of our structure tools can be found here.

Quite simply, this means sanding the base of the ski and putting a structure on it. The structure is the pattern in the sole. This is very important for how well the skis glide on different types of conditions.

A coarse structure is suitable for wet conditions and a fine structure is for cold conditions.
There are many different structures, but to make it easy:

For cold and new snow, the finer the structure
For wet snow, the coarser the structure
The goal with the right structure is to drain the water from the snow so that the ski glides optimally.

Skin skis are wax-free cross-country skis. The waxing zone contains small hairs, like real skin, which provide grip. Even if you don't need to wax your skis with grip wax, for example, we recommend that you add products to the skins for the optimum experience and so that your skin skis last as long as possible.

To maintain the skin, we recommend cleaning, impregnation and boosting for optimal skiing. The glide zone must also be maintained with glide wax, like regular cross-country skis.

Skin skis should not be waxed like regular classic skis, but you must clean the skin with a separate cleaner (Skin Cleaner), impregnate it (Skin Impregnation) and preferably use a boost (Skin Boost) between each ski trip if you want optimum grip and glide.

It is very important that you do not use ordinary ski cleaners, which are used for waxing, when cleaning skin. Using commercially available ski cleaners will remove the adhesive from the skin.

You should also regularly glide wax the ski with a simple glide wax (N19 Glide Wax) to maintain the glide or use more advanced methods to achieve better glide.

To clean skin skis, use a special cleaner (Skin Cleaner). You spray the cleaner onto the fiberlene and rub the skin until it is clean. Do not use ordinary ski cleaners, as they will remove the adhesive from the skin.

To impregnate skin skis, you can use our Skin Impregnation. It is very easy to apply to a clean, dry skin. First shake the bottle, unscrew the cap and gently squeeze the sponge on the skin, then drag it over the skin.

If you don't already have anything and want a simple package to maintain your skin skis, the Swix P15N contains all you need. We also recommend Skin impregnation.

We recommend that the skin is impregnated before use and cleaned after use. Use suitable products designed for skin skis: Skin Boost, Skin Impregnation and Skin Cleaner.

The glide zone on the integrated skin skis must be saturated and prepared like all other skis. On saturated skis, you can use a liquid glide wax if you want easy maintenance of the glide.

To get a better grip on a skin ski, we recommend moving the binding slightly forward. It is also important that the skin is clean and remains dry.

By cleaning the skin with Skin Cleaner, impregnating the skin to avoid icing with Skin Impregnation and Skin Boost, the skin will flex more easily when you slide forward and the hairs on the skin will grip the snow better when you kick off.

The glide zone of a skin ski is treated the same as the glide zone of all cross-country skis.

You should glide your skis regularly with a simple glide wax to maintain the glide and the health of your base or use more advanced methods if you want to achieve a better glide.

In order to avoid slippery skin skis, we recommend moving the binding slightly forward. It is also important that the skin is clean and remains dry.

By cleaning the skin with Skin Cleaner, impregnating the skin to avoid icing with Skin Impregnation and Skin Boost, the skin will flex more easily when you slide forward and the hairs on the skin will grip the snow better when you kick off.

Skin skis are best used when the ski trails are firm, preferably around 0 degrees. If the ski trails become too loose, you may experience poorer grip. The reason for this is because the hairs on the skin do not stick well enough to the snow as you kick off, because the snow is too loose.

We partner with certified organizations to calculate and offset emissions based on your shipment’s distance and weight. You’ll receive a carbon offset certificate via email.

If something goes wrong with your protected order, reporting it is easy. Just head to our Shield Centre, enter your order number and zip code, and follow the steps.
Depending on the shipment issue, you may be asked to provide additional proof such as image, video or police report. Please note that a 7-day waiting period following delivery is required before you can declare the item stolen.

No. Once your order is confirmed, these options cannot be removed or refunded.

No, it’s optional—but we recommend it for high-value orders or areas with higher delivery risks.

If you prefer not to include these options:
• Return to your shopping cart
• Click ""Checkout without Shipping Protection""
• Complete your purchase as normal

We've combined these services because:

• The total cost remains very low
• It simplifies the checkout process
• It ensures all packages have both environmental offsets and protection

No, currently Shipped Green and Shipped Shield are bundled together as a single package due to their minimal combined cost. This allows us to offer both environmental protection and delivery assurance at an affordable rate.
Shipped Green + Shield = Smarter Shipping
By keeping both options, you get:
♻️ Carbon-neutral delivery + 📦 Package protection = Responsible, worry-free shopping.

Shipped Green is an eco-friendly shipping option that offsets the carbon emissions of your delivery by supporting verified environmental projects. A small fee is added to your order to fund initiatives like reforestation or renewable energy.

To protect your health, it is always best to use a waxing mask. The waxing mask ensures safe ski prepping, and in our opinion is a must-have in all waxing booths.

Beginner: T42 Economy Mask. Replaceable filters

Advanced: T43 Racing mask with replaceable filter

Expert: T41 Pro Mask w/fan

You should use roto brushes with roto handles with extractor (Roto Cover w/Suction, 100 mm ), have a T70 waxing iron with extractor (T70-FR2 Suction frame for T70 iron ) and use a waxing mask. You should also have window or door open to let in fresh air.

Yes, we have a frame that can be fitted to the T70 waxing iron with the option of connecting the vacuum cleaner. T70-FR2 Suction frame for T70 iron.

Yes, we have roto handles with the option to attach the vacuum cleaner (Roto Cover w/Suction, 100 mm and Roto Cover w/Suction, 140 mm ).

We recommend changing the filter once a year. If you wax a lot of skis for clubs or similar, you should change the filter twice a year.

We recommend it. If you use roto brushes, we recommend roto cover with suction, which you can connect to a vacuum cleaner. We also recommend using a vacuum cleaner on the waxing iron.

We always recommend wearing gloves. This avoids getting wax on your hands. A waxing apron is not necessary, but may be worth it if you don't want to get ski wax on your clothes.

The waxing booth should have a fan that sucks air out and an entrance where fresh air comes in. This provides proper circulation in the room.

We recommend using a waxing mask to protect your health when waxing skis. It will keep you safe while you prep your skis, and should be a must in all waxing booths.

The waxing mask protects you from fine dust and other particles emitted from ski waxes. This is especially true if you are working with heat and melting in the glide wax or liquid products. Then we always recommend using a waxing mask.

Wipe the waxing iron with Base Cleaner and fiberlene while it is hot.

A clean waxing iron will give a good result.

There are probably many culprits out there who have a dirty and scratched waxing iron. A waxing iron is the most important tool you have. If it is not scratch-free and in tip-top condition, it can lead to poor results or, in the worst case, damage to the ski base.

Wipe the waxing iron with Base Cleaner and fiberlene while it is hot.

Glider or klister, tape and the machine itself. It may be handy to have sandpaper if you are going to apply klister and use a scraper, a middle edge scraper and brushes if you are going to apply glide wax.

1. Switch on the machine and set the temperature

2. Remove lid and unroll the drum

3. Put in klister or fixed glide wax. Remember to have your own drums for the different products you want to use the machine for

4. Insert the roll and close the lid

5. Wait 10 minutes or until it has melted completely. The warmer the temperature, the thinner the layer

6. Prepare your skis while you wait. Rub the waxing zone if you want to put klister and tape between the wax and the glide zone, regardless of whether you are going to apply klister or glide wax

7. Guide the ski to where you want to apply klister/glide wax over the roller 2–3 times.

Press and hold one of the buttons that adjusts the temperature while the iron is plugged into a mains socket.

This depends on how often and how many skis/snowboards you need to prep. Another important factor is how good you want the result to be and what your budget is.

Higher quality waxing irons are thicker and retain the temperature better, resulting in a better result. Here are some examples to help you find the right one.

Beginner: T73

Expert cross-country skiing: T70

Expert downhill: T71A

This depends on how often and how many skis/snowboards you need to prep. Another important factor is how good you want the result to be and what your budget is.

Higher quality waxing irons are thicker and retain the temperature better, resulting in a better result. Here are some examples to help you find the right one.

Beginner: T73

Expert cross-country skiing: T70

Expert downhill: T71A

You will need:

Attachment to the skis (e.g. T149-50 )
Fixed glider (e.g. HS6 )
Waxing iron (e.g. T72 )
Plexi scraper
Middle edge scraper (e.g. T88 Pencil )
Brushes (e.g. Combi Brush)
Fiberlene
Glide wax cleaner

No, but some ski waxes require the use of a waxing iron.

To melt in the hard glide wax and base mount, you need a waxing iron. A good waxing iron will keep the temperature even as you guide it over the ski. Use a good waxing iron for glide waxes and a lower priced variant for base grips. If you use the same waxing iron for both the glide wax and the base grip, make sure that it is cleaned well between each use.

Ski waxing the easy way: F4 Glidewax

First, put the klister in the grip zone of the ski. If the klister is hard and therefore tough to apply to the grip zone, we recommend putting it in a warm place for five minutes, e.g. on the bathroom floor.
The easiest way to do this is to use your thumb to spread the klister over the grip zone, but if you find this a bit sticky you can also use a scraper.

Klister is the grip wax used from around zero degrees to warmer conditions, all the way up to +15°C.
Find Swix Klister here.

Use a scraper if you don't want to use your thumb.
We also have a klister brush, which is often used by those who wax a lot of skis.
For clubs and others who wax many pairs of skis at a time, a waxing machine can be a good alternative, and this also works with glide waxes.

If you are a beginner, we recommend Base klister on spray and quick klister.

If you are more advanced, we recommend Base klister (e.g. KX20) and middle layer klister (e.g. KX35) as well as top klister (e.g. K22).

Quick klister (e.g. K65C Uni ) is an option that makes it easier to put the klister on the skis than regular klister.

If you’re on the ski slopes and need to apply a layer just before you go out or need more klister during your ski trip, quick klister is ideal. Quick klister is thin and is best for short trips or trips where you have time to apply klister several times.

Regular klister comes in a tube and is easier to put on compared to Quick klister, but will in turn last longer.

Once the klister has been standing for a while, it will become hard and you can then place regular grip wax on top. This is done to avoid clogging on trips where there is a difference between damp and wet and colder and drier snow.

You can manage with base klister and then a layer of Quick or Universal klister. The best idea is to apply a layer of base klister, then a middle layer and finally grip wax, if the snow temperature permits.

Base klister (e.g. KB20C Base klister ) is what you put on first so that the klister that is laid on top and suited to the day's conditions has better grip and lasts the entire ski trip.

The spray version is easier to apply than the KX20, but doesn't last as long.

Use klister remover (I64N Base Cleaner) and fiberlene.
First, apply Fibelene and base cleaner on the zones where you have klister. Let it sit for a while and then use a scraper to scrape off the klister that has stuck under the Fiberlene.

This allows you to get rid of most of the klister without it becoming too sticky. Finally, polish off the residue with the Fiberlene and klister remover.

If you have a waxing table and waxing iron available, you can also apply Fiberlene strips on top of your klister. Drag your hot waxing iron over your Fiberlene strips. The klister will then stick to the Fiberlene. Scrape the Fiberlene off with a scraper.

Edge grinding is when you sharpen and put an angle on the edge of a ski. Naturally, this requires the ski to have a steel edge.

You can grind the edge to set an angle, where 88 degrees is most common for recreational skiers, while 87 degrees and lower are common for competitive skiers. On the edge of the base, it is common to have 1 degree if you want a ski that 'floats’ and does not 'cut' into the snow. Racing skiers often use 0.5 degrees on the edge of the base.

You grind the edges to get different degrees of how easily the steel edge can grip the snow or how sharp it is. You use angle bars and files to grind the side edges.

When you have a high angle (1 degree) on the base edge and a high angle on the side edge (89 degrees), the ski will float on the snow and not grip easily. It will then skid and not cut a grip when you are edging the ski.

On a racing ski you often want it to be more responsive and to grip, so then you have a lower angle on the base and side edge (0.5 and 87 degrees for example).

Beginner: A pack with easy grinding equipment, such as the Compact Edger Kit.

Experts:
Waxing table (World Cup Table)
Clamps
2–3 files
1–2 diamond grindstones
side is the correct degree (e.g., Side edge file guide WC, 87°)
the angle of the base is correct (e.g. Base Edge Beveling tool 0.5°)
side wall cutter (World Cup side wall cutter )
1–2 rubber grindstones

It’s a good idea to check the edges after every time you’ve used your skis. However, if there are no nicks or rust on the edges, there’s no need to sharpen them.
Make sure your skis are dry and store them in a dry, clean room – this will help the edges last longer.

Often it will be enough to sand the side edge to keep it sharp, but if it dents or rusts, it should be ground down regardless of whether it is a base or side edge.

The name gives you a little hint; the base edge is the steel edge that’s on the underside of the ski, while the side edge is the one that’s on the side of the ski.

On a regular ski, the side edge is 88 degrees and the base edge is ideally 1 degree.

When you have a high angle (1 degree) on the base edge and a high angle on the side edge (89 degrees), the ski will float on the snow and not grip easily. It will then skid and not cut a grip when you are edging the ski.

When racing, these are usually 87/0.5 degrees respectively. On a racing ski you often want it to be more responsive and grip, and then you have a lower angle on the base and side edge (e.g. 0.5 and 87 degrees).

The diamond grindstone is used after you have set the edge up to polish it, for extra sharpness. It can also be used to grind away rust. M

You can combine a coarse and a fine grindstone or opt for a medium one.

Rubber grindstones can be used to round the edges if they are too sharp or to remove cracks or rust. If you buy the T240, you have both a fine and coarse grindstone in one.

No, preferably not. This will remove the glide wax and dry out the ski. If you use Base cleaner in the glide zone, you need to glide the ski again.
We recommend using Base cleaner when cleaning wax and klister from the GRIP ZONE on your skis.
Do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.

No, preferably not. This will remove the glide wax and dry out the ski. If you use Base cleaner in the glide zone, you need to glide the ski again.
We recommend using Base cleaner when cleaning wax and klister from the grip zone on your skis.
Do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.

Use klister remover (I64N Base Cleaner) and fiberlene.
First, apply Fibelene and base cleaner on the zones where you have klister. Let it sit for a while and then use a scraper to scrape off the klister that has stuck under the Fiberlene.

This allows you to get rid of most of the klister without it becoming too sticky. Finally, polish off the residue with the Fiberlene and klister remover.

If you have a waxing table and waxing iron available, you can also apply Fiberlene strips on top of your klister. Drag your hot waxing iron over your Fiberlene strips. The klister will then stick to the Fiberlene. Scrape the Fiberlene off with a scraper.

The easiest and gentlest way to remove grip wax is with Fiberlene and base cleaner.

You can also use a plastic scraper if you have a lot of old wax on your skis that is hard to remove.

You should clean your skis every time the trail changes, and whenever the wax on the skis is no longer correct for the present trail.
You will also need to clean more often if there is a lot of muck on the ski trail and/or the snow conditions are rough. This is because the wax is pulled out into the glide zone.

You need Base Cleaner, Glide Wax Cleaner, fiberlene and a plastic scraper.

The easiest and gentlest way to remove grip wax is with fiberlene and base cleaner. A plastic scraper can also be used if you have a lot of old wax on your skis and it is firmly stuck on.

Video: How to remove old ski wax

Use the glide wax cleaner and fiberlene to clean the glide zone.
It is important that you do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax Cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.

To avoid poor grip and glide, you need to clean your skis. The purpose is to remove old wax before applying new wax.

Use Base Cleaner, Fiberlene and preferably a scraper to clean the grip zone. Use the glide wax cleaner and Fiberlene to clean the glide zone.

Base Cleaner (red box) is for cleaning the grip zone. Glide Wax cleaner (black box) is for cleaning the glide zone. When using the Glide wax cleaner, you clean away any dirt and not the glide wax cleaner. If you use Base cleaner, you clean off the glide wax and dirt. After using Base cleaner in the glide zone, you need to glide again.
Do not use Base Cleaner and Glide Wax cleaner on skin skis. This will remove the skin's adhesive. You can clean your skin skis with Swix Skin Cleaner.